A synchronised infrared beam across the opening that holds your gate the instant anything crosses it — with a battery-powered transmitter, so there is no trench to cut across the driveway.
An automated gate is a few hundred kilos of steel driven by a motor, and on its own it has no idea what is in the way. The kids are the first thing on anyone's mind, and rightly — they come through on scooters behind the car, or turn around and run back for something they've left, and they do it at the exact moment the gate has started closing. Pets are next. Dogs go for the gap the same way, at the same worst possible moment, and cats are no better because the warm paving in the opening is exactly where they want to sit. Then there's the visitor who walks in while the gate is already on its way shut. A pair of photocells puts an invisible infrared beam across the opening and wires it into the safety input on your control board. Break that beam and the gate stops and reverses in under thirty milliseconds — and while the beam stays broken, it will not close at all. This is the single accessory we would never leave off an automated gate.
This is the part that usually hurts. A photocell needs a unit on both sides of the opening, and conventional pairs need power run to both — which means cutting a channel across a finished concrete or paved driveway to reach the far pillar. It is the most expensive part of the job and the hardest to make look like it was never there. The FC330 transmitter runs on lithium batteries instead, for around two years a set. Only the receiver is wired, and that goes on the same side as your control box, where the cable already is. Batteries are included.
Real driveways are rarely tidy. Pillars sit back off the opening, one side is a return wall, or the only flat face points the wrong way. The lens inside each unit rotates through a hundred and eighty degrees across three fixed positions, so the beam can be aimed square across the gap even when the housings can't be. Range is selectable at fifteen or thirty metres, which covers everything from a single carport to a wide rural entrance. The receiver and transmitter are synchronised, so if the job needs a second pair — one set outside, one inside, which is what we recommend where the gate isn't visible from the button — they won't interfere with each other.
A cheap photocell fails in one of two ways: water gets in, or it starts stopping the gate for no reason at all. This one is rated IP65 with the closure gasket fitted, in a glass-reinforced nylon housing behind a polycarbonate front with a UV filter, so it won't yellow or go brittle in Australian sun. The beam is pulse-modulated at 600 Hz rather than simply shining, which is what stops low afternoon sun, headlights and wet-paving reflections from being read as a break in the beam. It runs from −20 °C to +55 °C, and the receiver carries a red LED that shows alignment during setup and confirms a detection afterwards.
Supplied as a matched pair — one battery transmitter and one wired receiver. The receiver needs 12–24 V AC/DC and a normally-closed safety input from your control board, so it mounts on the control-box side of the opening. It suits the Ditec sliding and swing gate motors we supply and any other panel with a photocell safety input. Fit both units facing each other on the same axis at the same height, and at least 300–400 mm off the ground so the beam doesn't bounce off wet paving. That height stops a person, a car and most dogs, but a low beam will always miss a cat or a small puppy — if pets are the reason you're fitting these, tell us and we'll set the height for your animals, or price a second lower pair. Photocells are one part of a compliant gate safety system rather than the whole of it — the FC330 is built to EN 12453 and EN 12978.
Only one of the two units needs wiring, which is what puts this within reach of a confident DIY install. Start with the transmitter on the far side of the opening: drop the batteries in, hold it against the pillar, mark two holes and fix it. That side is finished, with no cable and no trench. Then set the receiver on the control-box side at the same height, facing it squarely, and run four cores back to your panel — two for 12–24 V power and two for the safety contact — and switch the photocell input on at the board if it isn't already. Set the range jumper for your opening width, then use the red LED on the front of the receiver to line the pair up: LED off means the beam is clean, LED on means you're still out. Walk through the beam to confirm the gate stops and reverses, and do that test before you seal the covers and tidy the cable. Allow an hour, and the tools are a drill, a screwdriver and a small level. Take the alignment slowly and the rest of the job is easy.